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Thursday, August 15, 2013

Vietnam: On Our Way

Kia Ora!

A popular holiday destination for Kiwis and Aussies is Vietnam. KC and I decided to follow the itinerary of our Kiwi friends from Invercargill and tour Vietnam from Ha Long Bay in the North to boating up the Mekong River in the South, stopping in Da Nang in between. We will post our adventures as we are able on the way.

We left Christchurch to fly through Auckland and on to Singapore, via NZ Air and Singapore Air. KC hates spending nights en route so we are stopping twice in Singapore for a transit hotel overnight at the Changi Airport. More on that later as the airport quite impressed me.

Long wait for luggage
The next day we flew into Hanoi (Ha Noi). This airport typifies that of a developing country. Frayed, musty carpet, somewhat disorganized flow pattern for visas, and split baggage claim areas on opposite sides of the terminal. We went to the wrong side first, but our luggage still had not arrived when we got ourselves in the correct place. It took so long someone apologized on the public address system.

Finally collected, we found our driver, Son, patiently waiting. He had been there for an hour through the slow process through immigration, customs and baggage claim, plus our plane's late arrival. Son is a very careful driver, a characteristic much appreciated in the organized chaos of traffic. We were pleased to find the major highways in excellent repair. Our room on the 8th floor of the Golden Lotus Hotel is small but tastefully appointed. We are eager to explore this city.

Cheers,
Kiwi Traveler

Sunday, August 11, 2013

Oystermania

Kia Ora!

Quick! Before they are gone! The oyster boats plying the Foveau Strairat the end of South Island will retire for the season at the end of August. We eat oysters while we can. Oyster Chowder was on our menu recently. It was delicious so I am sharing the recipe with you.

Oyster Chowder
Serves 2

Chop 4 slices of smoked bacon into matchstick size and brown in a large pot over medium high heat. Drain on a paper towel and set aside. Retain about 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat. Add 1/2 tablespoon of chopped rosemary and 1 dried red chile broken into pieces. Cook about one minute and add 2 small finely chopped ribs of celery, 1 small finely chopped onion, and 1/2 finely chopped fresh fennel bulb. Cook about 10 minutes over low heat until softened stirring occasionally. Add 2 quarts fish stock and bring to a simmer.

Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan. Add 1/4 cup flour. Cook over moderate heat stirring until roux is the color of butter scotch or caramel, about 5-6 minutes. Add to soup and bring to a boil. Add 1/2 pound of fingerling potatoes cut into 1/2 inch slices; simmer until tender. Soup will thicken a bit while simmering. Stir in 3/4 cup cream, season with salt and pepper and simmer. Add 1 cup shucked oysters with their liquor and the cooked bacon. Simmer about 3 minutes to cook oysters. Spoon into bowls and enjoy.
Note: a photo of the finished chowder with sesame dinner roll and white wine should appear here. Internet Explorer refuses to allow it. I don't know why. KT

Cheers,
Kiwi Traveler

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Watch the Kiwis Sail in America's Cup

Kia ora!

The Louis Vuitton America's Cup sailing race, happening right now in San Francisco Bay, is an event for billionaires and sports fans. There are few challengers to take on America's entry this year, the BMW Oracle: only Italy, Sweden, and New Zealand will vie to take on the Americans.  It became America's Cup when the American vessel won a yachting race around the Isle of Wight against several British boats in 1851. This contest is the oldest trophy still active in international sport. (Information from several entries in Wikipedia.)

I live on a Minnesota lake in the summer but don't sail, in central Texas I am landlocked, but I'm a bit of a sucker for any kind of sporting contest. NZ TV One News is streaming the race live. Watch videos and live streaming of America's Cup here.

 How is a tiny country like New Zealand so prominent over the years in this rather exclusive race? They made a successful challenge in 1995 and won the cup. This country is surrounded by water. No one got here, including those superb sailors the Maori, except by ship. The NZ entry for this race the Emirates Team New Zealand boat, is named New Zealand Aotearoa. As with the rest of the boats, there are multiple corporate sponsors.

The prelims have been happening for some time. The NZ boat has done very well, earning the right to skip any more prelims and go directly to the final. This gives them 3 weeks to work on increasing their speed while the Italians and Swedes battle to join the final.

These boats (America's Cup AC72 class) are built as wing sail catamarans; they lift up out of the water on hydrofoils. At full speed they look like boats sailing through the air with only poles stabilizing them in the water. They are unlike any sailing vessels before them and extremely expensive to build. Sailing them is not for the faint of heart; the Swedes lost one of their crew in a sailing accident on their boat in the build-up to the races. Rescue boats are on the water near the contenders each time they are racing.

There are some great still photos of the boats, but they are copyrighted photos on Flickr that I can't copy. But you can see them for yourself.

Keep sailing,

Kiwi Traveler

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Jet Lagged in Timaru

Kia Ora!

Jet lag is a given in global travel. I am back in our comfortable home in Timaru feeling a bit listless. Sleep on a 12-hour overnight flight, even using a sleeping prescription, is fitful at best. So how does one deal with jet lag?

My formula is to resist sleeping during daylight hours, spending as much time as possible in sunlight. Of course, if it is overcast and raining, as it was when I landed in Christchurch yesterday, one settles for what light filters through the clouds.

Today the sun broke through in the afternoon and KC and I went to Caroline Bay park for a walk. Exercise is energizing and helps dispel the temptation to sleep, though a limited nap can be refreshing.

Coffee or tea is helpful, but I take no other supplements. In years past, when I did a lot of international travel, I kept myself caffeine-free so I could use the effect of coffee as an antidote to jet lag after arrival. I can't say that was very effective, but I thought so at the time.

Keeping busy with non-strenuous or easy tasks seems to work well. I intend to take note how long before my full energy returns. We have visitors arriving from the United States in September. I want to be sure they recover from jet lag before unleashing the  full tourist's itinerary that I am planning on them.

Cheers,
Kiwi Traveler

Monday, July 15, 2013

Who are the Maori?


Kia Ora!

To answer the question straightaway, the Maori are the people living on the islands they called Aotearoa when European sailing captains "discovered" New Zealand (NZ). Kiwis of the 21st century have embraced Maori customs, such as the many Maori place names, and the All-Blacks national rugby team performing a haka, (Maori warrior's war dance) at international meets. Persons who appear as European as I do, proudly claim their Maori heritage through mixed ancestry. Many respected denizens of South Island are descendants of early whalers and sealers and their Maori wives. In the recent past, acceptance by the dominant culture was not always enjoyed by contemporary Maori, who felt disrespected. Indeed, a social friend, who appeared to be Pakeha (non-Maori, usually European), was actually born in a marae. Being of fair complexion, his family advised that he would have a better life if he denied his Maori heritage and lived in the Pakeha culture. He does, but his sister continues to live in the marae. His Pakeha wife proudly claims Maori heritage for their children.

Between now and when the first sailing ships landed in NZ, conflict was inherent with two separate groups--Maori and Pakeha-- bumping up against each other in a small country. Dispute over territory, sovereignty, and interpretation of the Treaty of Waitangi continues into recent time.

The Maori are Polynesians and would be distantly related to our own native citizens of Hawaii. The Polynesians originally came from Taiwan. Excellent sailors, they spread throughout the Pacific to many sites, including Easter Island. There is some evidence they were in contact with South American cultures.

I picked up a book* in the library that explicates the meaning of the various treaties and outlines the history of the conflicts that arose over the past 400 or so years. I am particular about the expertise of authors who present themselves as knowledgeable about their topic. Ian Wishart is a journalist of controversial repute. His
book contains long passages taken from original documents, which appear appropriately cited. From this, I assume (hope) he is knowledgeable as well as opinionated about  the history, conflicts, and the Waitangi Treaty. The book however is published by his own press. According to Wikipedia, he is also a "born-again Christian", a proponent of "intelligent design" and argues against human contribution to global warming. He makes the point in the Prologue that his wife is part Maori and his children have a tribal heritage.

The portion that interested me most was the history of contact between the early seafaring explorers (Tasman, Cook, etc.) and the tribes of Maori. Wishart seems to go out of his way using a good third of the book to document the barbarism of the Maori culture. He describes a society fragmented into major and minor tribes, whose major occupation seemed to be either war or alliances with each other. In war, those defeated were enslaved or eaten, a practice that extended to crews of ships who had the misfortune to offend the Maori in some way. Sometimes the sailors were guilty of treating the Maori cruelly, and sometimes it was a result of not understanding cultural expectations.

Wishart describes a culture that seemed to treat their own people harshly. "The tribal customs of throwing the sick and the pregnant outside into the cold so as not to defile the sleeping huts, and refusing to feed them, had a huge impact on infant and adult mortality, as did the practice of killing baby girls at birth" (Wishart, p. 141).  The missionaries and acceptance of Christianity is credited with a cultural change in Maori behavior over a few decades.

"Although the ghoulish habit of cannibalism scared the proverbial out of the Europeans, ... missionaries and even British fleet officers ... had seen something else. The Maori, for all the terrible habits, were an advanced, intelligent, civilised people. They traded, they had a strong code of honour and justice, they could interact as equals with Europeans and hold their own in battle.... the practice of cannibalism was ritualistic and strongly tied to the warrior code; providing a final insult to a slain enemy" (Wishart, p. 99.)

A thesis that runs through the book seems to be aimed at those Maori and Pakeha alike that interpret the Maori as being historically defrauded and abused. He claims that the Maori "could give as good as they got" in their early exposure to Pakeha (Wishart, p. 86.) Later he claims that fraudulent land sales were practised by both Maori and Pakeha.

Many Maori live in a manner today no different than that of Pakeha. Others live communally in maraes. The Maori political party is represented in Parliament. Obviously I only know what I read or experience. I have no background in Kiwi culture and thus no opinion on Wishart's theme about the Treaty of Waitangi. What was most interesting to me was the history he expounded.

*Wishart, I. (2012). The great divide: The story of New Zealand & and its treaty. Howling at the Moon Publishing: Auckland.

Cheers,

Kiwi Traveler

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Bluff Oysters, a Recipe, and a Surprise Ending

Lovely Bluff oysters

Kia Ora!

Bluff oysters! The name makes many salivate with anticipation, Kiwi Traveler included. These outstanding oysters are available only from March to August in New Zealand. Their biological name is Tiostrea chilensis, and they are found in Chile as well as through out New Zealand waters. But most in New Zealand are dredged from the Foveaux Strait between the southern tip of South Island and Stewart Island.

Oyster boats begin the harvest on March 1. One year on that date, we sat in a tea room in Bluff and watched the oyster boats streaming in from their first dredging of the year. When we lived in Invercargill, we often bought our oysters from the wholesale supplier. For some reason, I have yet to see Bluff oysters marketed unshelled. As one who enjoys raw oysters on the half shell with a Monteith brew once in awhile, I find this puzzling. Instead they are sold by the dozen in plastic containers with lids that must be unlocked and pried open. They are fingernail breakers!


Fingernail Assassin
In Timaru, we get our Bluffies from the New World supermarket. We have had them this year several times, usually fried with various breadings. For variety, I decided to bake them.



While the oysters drained, I sliced and sliced and sliced leeks, missing my food processor greatly.

Liquor not saved for this recipe
Leeks










Baked Oysters

Melt a tablespoon or so of butter in a small fry pan on medium heat. Make a roux with an equal amount of flour and 1/2 cup of heavy cream. Add cream slowly whisking all the while and until mixtures thickens. Remove from heat.

Saute' about 4 slices of bacon, chopped, in a larger skillet (I prefer cast iron) until crisp. Remove and drain. Leave about a tablespoon of bacon fat in pan and add 2 large leeks thinly sliced, 1/2 cup finely chopped celery, one bay leaf, and an optional shake or two of cayenne. Saute' over medium heat until the veges are soft. Add a tablespoon or so of dry white wine and cook until absorbed.

Add cream mixture and simmer. Mixture should thicken. Stir in bacon and a tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese. Season to taste with salt and fresh ground pepper. Now place the oysters in a baking dish in a single layer. Top them with the leek mixture. Using Panko bread crumbs, cover the top and bake in a 500 F. degree oven until leek mixture bubbles and crumbs are golden. If the crumbs brown too fast, cover the casserole with aluminum foil until bottom layer bubbles. Enjoy with your choice of chilled white wine, salad and toast or rolls.

Proudly I removed a beautifully done baked oyster casserole from the oven with
Perfectly Baked Oysters
both hands in oven mitts. I might add that they were slippery oven mitts.


Oops! I dropped the whole thing!
Where the casserole ended up



The oysters stayed in the dish, which was under the table. Enough of the topping was salvageable, and we lost only what was actually on the floor. It was delicious anyway.

Cheers

Kiwi Traveler

Monday, June 24, 2013

Longing for Middle Earth

Kia Ora!

Apologies to followers for a long absence. If we had been able to arrive in Timaru, New Zealand when the contractor first wanted Kiwi Consort (KC), we would have been back in Texas and Minnesota by May, when other obligations needed to be met. However, bureaucracy never moves swiftly. By the time all the required papers had been authenticated and signed, it was late February. We returned to the United States May 1, completed a whirlwind month of travel. Then KC returned to NZ to complete his contract and I traveled to Minnesota for a few weeks. I plan to return to NZ August 1. In the meantime, I will continue posting as I am able. There are drafts from Timaru waiting, and if those run out, back story of the times we lived in Takapuna, Invercargill, and Greymouth.

Leaving Timaru

For this post, I have written a prose list poem about our month of travel in the US.

We left Timaru at noon one day in a 20-seat airplane. Exchanged it for a larger craft in Wellington, flew on to
Middle Earth calls us back
(Wellington terminal)
Auckland. Boarded a jumbo jet, flew across the ocean, arrived in Los Angeles before we left New Zealand. Passing through Denver, then Houston, arrived in Austin thirty hours after we left Timaru.  Fly off to Washington, back to Austin. Drive to Houston, on to New Orleans, Birmingham, Nashville, Chicago, Minneapolis. Now is not the time to stop; the long road beckons back to Middle Earth.
A plane to Middle Earth

Cheers, Kiwi Traveler