Vegemite Tales: South Pacific Cruise: Norfolk Island

Kia Ora!

From 24 March to 3 April 2010, I cruised on the Pacific Sun, a P & O Cruise Ship (a branch of Carnival Cruises). My motivation was a fascination of the South Pacific Islands, particularly for the role some played in World War II. We sailed from Queen's Wharf in Auckland, and Norfolk Island was the first of four ports of call.

26 March. This started as a day of drama. Though anticipating a full day in port, the Captain announced that the ocean swell at the dock was too great for the small landing craft that would take us ashore. Passengers lined the decks of the boat staring at their destination as Norfolk Islanders lined the shore staring back. The passengers had been reminded ad nauseum that this was an historic stop: the first by a cruise ship since 1932. The islanders probably had dollar signs in their eyes over this. They begged the Captain to wait, the swell would recede. Receded or not, at noon I was aboard a crowded tender ship (aka life boat) heading to the island.

Hula girls greeted us and every bus on the island was commandeered to bring the 1800 or so passengers into the city of Burnt Pine, more than doubling the island population. Tours were conducted by enthusiastic islanders.

I took a tour with Rosa, a professional photographer, who led us on a manic chase around the scenic and historic areas of the island. I didn't learn much photography, but I saw most of the island which is only 8 x 5 kilometers.

That great explorer, Captain Cook, stopped for supplies and named the island for the Duke of Norfolk.

While Norfolk Islanders converse in English, they have a unique language also, a combination of Old English and Tahitian. In 1856, descendents of the crew from the Bounty (of Mutiny on the Bounty fame) and their Tahitian families relocated from Pitcairn Island to Norfolk. Most current residents are descended from the mutinous sailors and bear their names proudly. The island residents insist they are their own self-governing entity, but I paid a visa fee to Australia to land here.

Colleen McCullough, who lives on Norfolk Island, wrote Morgan's Run, a novel about the English penal colony established here in 1788. The historic ruins remain as they are but the old church is maintained.

The robust economy appears self-sustaining and very little is imported. There is a lovely main street commercial area as well as a small mall.

The most exciting entertainment for the residents this day was the appearance of a large cruise ship in their harbour and cars filled the parking lot with local sightseers. We entertained each other!