Tramping at Mount Cook Village

Kia Ora!

A shivery lunch for Barb and KT

Dressed in our warmest layers of clothing, we huddled on a bench in Tekapo Springs eating the lunch we brought with us from our Timaru home base. While the sun was bright, the wind was brisk and the temperature couldn't have been much more than 7 C. (about 41 F.). We were on our way to Mt.Cook Village for a bit of tramping and, of course, eating at the fabulous buffet at the Heritage Hotel. We stayed in a lovely flat in the relatively new Aoraki Court Motel.

Trampers, with poles (Sarah, Sue)

 The first purchase Sarah and Sue made in New Zealand was to procure hiking poles. Perhaps they anticipated a more rugged country than they found? The only person traveling with a bag large enough to haul the collapsed poles was Barbara, and she carried them through all of our journey. Now they would be put to use!

Fast trampers gone, over the hill

The next morning, Sarah, Sue, and I drove to the DOC (Department of Conservation) campground and hiked in to Mueller glacier and lake. Sarah and Sue are much more able than I and walked faster and further, while I plodded on my own time.  My goal was to reach the second of three bridges crossing a fast mountain river. I went until I was fatigued but did not make the second bridge.

One of three bridges

While we were hiking, Barbara did her own hike around the motels' campus and spent the morning at the excellent DOC museum and i-Site.

Mueller Glacial Lake

Perhaps this is the case of the tortoise winning the day.  While others went further and no doubt saw the same scenery, still the mountains, clouds, river and fine day seemed to be all mine.

This is where I saw God

Tasman Valley and Tasman River

 On our last day, Sarah and Sue were up at dawn for another tramp in the Tasman Valley while Barbara and I slept in.

Hydroelectric Power Harnessed

Canal from Lake Pukaki

The scenery on our trip back out of the mountains was perhaps anticlimatic but worthy nonetheless of a mention. We took a different route, no less beautiful, which offers mention of two New Zealand industries. The glaciers and snow melt into fast moving streams and rivers. These are harnessed to provide electricity. Canals from the lakes feed into the rivers and are used to farm salmon.

Next, I comment on driving and we do more shopping (New Zealand loves us!).

Cheers,
Kiwi Traveler

Reality Check on an Otherwise Perfect Weekend

Kia Ora! from New Zealand**

The man in a red jacket attracted my attention as he walked through the shop at The Hermitage in Mt. Cook Village. First, because I perceived tension in his body language and rapid stride, and second, because he had a dog with him. The dog also wore a red coat with the words, Mountain Rescue Team emblazoned in white letters. An ominous sign?

Mt. Cook

KC and I drove into the mountains. No matter how many times we may come to this valley nestled into the Southern Alps Mountain range, these peaks never fail to engender tremendous awe and a feeling of smallness in a huge universe.

We hiked a short way into Hooker Valley. Snow was beginning to melt but there was enough for tourists to play in and to create a snowman. 

We hiked up a short elevation to read a memorial to climbers who met their death here in 1914. Many others, who have lost their lives in this mountain range, are not so memorialized.

1914 Memorial

This visit we took time at the Department of Conservation Visitors Site to read the history of mountain climbing in this area. We learned that pilots skilled in helicopter rescue, emergency medical technicians, mountain climbers and adventurers take low paying jobs at the Hermitage and village to be able to volunteer as a mountain rescue team. For example, the person clipping a hedge one day may be rappelling into a crevasse to rescue a climber, the next. All climbers are assigned huts high on the mountain to serve as their shelter after climbing. Each night, someone from base camp at The Hermitage radios each hut until all climbers are logged in safe. When there is no reply, the rescue team is alerted.

The weather couldn't have been more perfect. Sunny, with cloud cotton balls floating in the blue sky. Mt. Cook, often under a cloud shroud, gleamed gloriously into the valley. 

But the day wasn't so sunny and the night long and cold for some. Shortly after I saw the man and the dog, rumors flew in low tones around the lounge where we relaxed with pre-dinner libations. The rescue team had retrieved a body off the mountain. Furthermore, another separate climbing party was lost, and no more searching would go on that night. The next morning I heard and saw a red helicopter streaking out over the mountains. They would find the lost party and a second body to be retrieved off the mountain. An unusually tragic weekend for an Australian tourist and a New Zealand man not quite prepared for the challenges he faced.

My thoughts are sober, about how it is to be in a perilous situation and realize the ending might not be pleasant or even survivable. Many years ago, I was in that position on a hike. Four women were climbing up rocks when the mossy surface began to slide. Below was a ravine of sharp boulders. The drop was about 15 feet; I was in the position of being first to slide backwards over the edge. I remember thinking that I knew exactly what was about to happen and mentally prepared myself for the worse, paralysis or death. Then the sliding stopped right at the edge, and our companions helped the two of us off the rock.

Some of us are greater risk takers than others. But while two died this weekend on the mountain, others did also crossing the street, driving on the highway, cycling, or just being in the wrong place at the wrong time. We all take risks daily, some greater than others. Yet we rarely think to be grateful for surviving and taking pleasure in another day. Today, I am grateful to be alive.

Soberly,

Kiwi Traveler

**More on Vietnam is coming, but life goes on in Timaru.